Nantucket is the only place in the United States that is a town, a county, and an island, and in its entirety, both a State Historic District and a National Historic Landmark. It is a place where nearly half the land is held in conservation, and there are no stoplights, shopping malls, or fast-food franchises. Instead, in the cobblestone streets and along the brick sidewalks of Nantucket Village, friends call out greetings and stop to chat, and everyone seems to know each other. It doesn't take long to feel at home here.

While Nantucket may indeed be far away, the island is readily accessible, so visitors feel that, while it's nice to stay for a few days or more, even a daytrip here is worthwhile. The trip from Hyannis is a little more than two hours by boat (or just an hour by high-speed ferry) and only 15 minutes by air. We especially enjoy arriving by ferry and seeing the whole town come into view as the vessel rounds the lighthouse at Brant Point and enters the harbor. The first thing you'll notice is the uniformity of the buildings, which are built almost exclusively of gray weathered shingle with white trim, one of the indications that construction and alterations are strictly monitored. In 1970 the entire island was established as a Historic District, which means that all construction must be accepted by the Historic District Commission, the Nantucket Building Department and the Planning Board. While residents may grumble or joke about the stringent regulations, there's no arguing with the results: Nantucket has an incredibly unspoiled appearance.

Islanders have also taken care to preserve the land here. More than 12,000 acres--40 percent of the island--are protected from development, much of that through the Nantucket Conservation Foundation, which owns and manages more than 8,452 acres. History, of course, has also been carefully and lovingly preserved. This community, which has a year-round population of nearly 7,000 (which swells to 50,000 during the summer and contributes roughly 70 percent of the economic base), maintains more than a dozen museums. Make sure you fit in at least one or two of these to get a real taste of the island's history, which is really its essence.

The island is 47.8 square miles--3.5 miles deep and 14 miles wide--a bit larger than Manhattan, which is 2.5 by 12 miles.

As islanders, Nantucketers are keenly sensitive to the environment and their quality of life. They are generally friendly and good-humored, but if you sense that your car is not exactly welcome on Nantucket, you are right. Islanders are happier to see visitors arrive without an automobile, largely because traffic has become a real problem here in summer. The truth is, you really don't need a car for a visit. It is very expensive to bring a vehicle to the island, and you can walk or bike just about anywhere. There are also taxis and bus service. Even if you are staying for an extended time, you can rent a car when you need one. You'll find it's actually quite liberating not to have to worry about parking, gas, and navigating the narrow roads. Nantucket forces you to forsake some aspects of modern life, and that is part of its charm.